Climbing expert shares 10 tips for safe climbing

Climbing expert shares 10 tips for safe climbing

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MOAB — Rock climbing has been gaining popularity over the last several years, but many climbers make mistakes that can mean the difference between life and death, climbing experts say.

Utah is famous for being one of the top destinations for rock climbers around the nation, according to Climbing Magazine. But as popular as climbing may be, many novice climbers are starting to climb without all the proper equipment and training, according to Evan Clapper, a professional climbing guide in Moab.

With more than a decade of professional rock climbing experience, Clapper is now an American Mountain Guides Association certified climbing instructor and operations manager for Moab Cliffs and Canyons.

“The key to staying safe is redundancy,” Clapper said. “Double checking everything twice will ensure you are staying safe climbing.”

Here are several steps climbers can take so they can remain as safe as possible.

Get training

For those starting to get into climbing, Clapper recommends getting training from classes or from a professional climbing guide. Climbing courses are offered at many climbing gyms across Utah.

“(Climbing accidents) are usually caused by an operator’s error,” Clapper said. “People not getting proper training and heading out by themselves is dangerous.”

Check your harness

Before you start climbing, make sure your harness is a comfortable, yet snug fit with straps and buckles that are not loose or hanging free, Clapper said. The harness should be snug on the waistband as well as the leg loops.

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Check knots

Failing to check knots and not “closing the system” are some of the most fatal mistakes a climber can make, Clapper said. Make sure you know how to tie all the necessary climbing knots and double check each one on the climber’s and belayer’s harnesses and on the anchor.

Use safe anchors

Permanent anchors on established climbing routes that have stood the test of time are the most preferable, Clapper said.

“Only use your own anchors if you are very experienced with setting them up,” Clapper said.

Wear a helmet

Many climbers neglect to wear a helmet while climbing, which is a mistake, Clapper said. Both the climber and belayer need to wear a proper climbing helmet to protect from falling rocks and the impact of falling. According to a survey by the Wilderness and Environmental Medical Journal, 30 percent of all climbing injuries are to the head and can usually be prevented by wearing a helmet.

Take care of your rope

Clapper said it’s rare for ropes to fail if the climber takes good care of them. Always put knots on the end of your rope, make sure your rope is long enough, check for damaged spots in the rope, make sure the rope is properly threaded through the belaying device and keep ropes on the ground clean by placing them in a tarp bag instead of on the dirt, Clapper said.

Pay attention and communicate

Communication between belayers and lead climbers is key, Clapper said. Climbing commands can be learned at a climbing course and are essential for making sure everyone knows what is going on, Clapper said.

The belayer should avoid all distractions such as cellphones, children and animals. Losing focus on the climber can cause a slip.

Avoid wet or loose rocks

Climbing on wet or loose rocks can be fatal, especially on sandstone. Clapper said climbers should wait for the weather to clear and choose routes that are firm and stable.

Bring enough gear

Use a checklist. Climbing requires many pieces of gear, including ropes, carabiners, quick-draws, harnesses, belaying devices, anchors, chalk-bags and proper climbing shoes. If a climber forgets a piece of equipment, it will make the climb that much more dangerous, Clapper said.

Use proper climbing technique

Proper climbing technique can only be learned from someone who is experienced, preferably from a class or a professional guide, Clapper said. Always climb directly under the rope to avoid the “pendulum affect.” if you fall. Climb with the rope over your leg and make sure to properly clip the rope in the quick-draws as you climb.

Although climbing is a simple sport on its own, these steps that are necessary to remain safe, make it complex, Clapper said.

“As rock climbing continues to grow in popularity, so will the safety standards continually improve,” Clapper said. “If you make sure to do everything you’re supposed to while climbing, it can really be an enjoyable, safe experience.”


Spencer Ricks is a student at Dixie State University from Snoqualmie, Washington.

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